Movements

Choose by the function you will use

The dial style and the movement answer different questions. Start with the job you want your watch to do, then choose the exact colour and case version. The current ModTime catalogue uses the five movement configurations below.

NH34 automatic GMT

The separate 24-hour hand lets you follow a second time zone while the main hands show local time. This is useful for keeping home or a colleague’s time in view. NH34 adjusts the 24-hour hand separately; it is not an independently jumping local-hour GMT.

Choose this function when another time zone matters more than a stopwatch.

NH35 automatic with date

Wrist movement winds the mechanical movement, and the date display adds a calendar reference to the main time. NH35 combines automatic timekeeping with a date; it does not add a GMT hand or a chronograph stopwatch.

Choose this function for a mechanical daily watch with a date you can check at a glance.

NH38 no-date automatic

Wrist movement winds the mechanical movement. This no-date configuration keeps the time display free of a date window. Where this version has an open-heart or skeleton dial, that opening is a view of the mechanics rather than an additional timing function.

Choose this function when an uninterrupted dial or a view of mechanical movement is your priority.

VK63 meca-quartz chronograph

The stopwatch measures elapsed time up to 60 minutes. Its 24-hour subdial follows the main time and is not a separately adjustable GMT display. Quartz regulates timekeeping, while the chronograph uses a mechanical reset system.

Choose this function to time an activity rather than follow a second time zone. Stop the chronograph before resetting it.

Miyota 8285 automatic day-date

This automatic movement shows both the day of the week and the date, alongside the main time. The two calendar displays are useful when you want a fuller daily reference than a date-only watch.

Choose this function for a mechanical watch with weekday and date information rather than a GMT or stopwatch display.

Three everyday decisions

For calling someone abroad, look for NH34 and a readable 24-hour display. For timing a short activity, look for VK63. For a daily calendar, compare NH35's date with Miyota 8285's day and date. NH38 is the no-date alternative; an open-heart layout adds a view of mechanics, not another time zone.

Examples: GMT Joker NH34, Panda VK63 chronograph, Datejust Chocolate Two-Tone NH35, Chocolate Open Heart NH38 and Daydate Tiffany Miyota 8285.

Setting and material guidance

Use the instructions for your exact movement when setting its calendar. Time Module warns against quick date changes between 9 PM and 4 AM for NH34/NH35; Miyota's 8285 instructions identify a calendar-setting restriction around 9 PM to 1 AM. Move outside the applicable restricted interval before adjusting a calendar. These are movement instructions, not new product warranty terms.

The function is separate from the case and crystal. Read why ModTime uses a 904L steel case and what sapphire scratch resistance means.

Manufacturer references

Time Module NH3 operating instructions; Time Module NH38 technical guide; Time Module VK63 technical guide; Miyota 8285 operating instructions. Manufacturer documents explain the calibre's functions. They do not make the complete custom watch an official factory model.

The movement is the part of the watch that turns design into behavior.

A case can create presence. A dial can create mood. A bracelet can change the way the watch sits on the wrist. But the movement is what gives the build its rhythm: how the seconds hand travels, how the crown feels, how a date or GMT hand is set, how a chronograph starts, stops and returns.

For a first-time custom watch buyer, the movement should make the watch easy to understand. For a collector, it should make the build feel intentional. That is why ModTime treats every movement choice as part of the design story, not as a hidden technical footnote.

If you want to see where the movement fits into the full assembly process, start with How We Build. If you want to understand the case, crystal, bracelet and finishing choices around the movement, continue into Materials. For practical testing and ownership expectations, read Water Resistance, Quality Check, Build Timeline and Warranty & Support.

Why we build around established movement families

ModTime uses established TMI movement families because a custom watch should feel considered from the inside out. The goal is not to make the most complicated watch possible. The goal is to match the right movement to the right build, so the watch feels coherent every time it is worn.

TMI traces its movement work back to Tokyo in 1987. Its NH mechanical series became part of the watch movement market in 2008, the VK premium quartz chronograph series followed in 2010, and the NH34 GMT movement was introduced in 2022. For ModTime, that history matters because it gives us movement families with clear functions, known architecture and practical ownership logic.

The important part is transparency: ModTime does not present these as proprietary in-house calibres, and we do not imply authorization, endorsement or affiliation with any external watch brand. We build independent custom watches around selected movement families, then focus on component fit, careful assembly, functional testing and a clean final presentation.

NH35 automatic: the everyday mechanical foundation

The NH35 is the movement for the buyer who wants a mechanical watch that feels calm, familiar and ready for daily wear.

It is an automatic mechanical movement with three hands and a date. TMI lists the NH35 with 21,600 vibrations per hour, a stop-second device, 24 jewels, and country of origin as Japan or Malaysia depending on reference. In plain English, that means the watch has a traditional mechanical heartbeat, a practical date display and the ability to stop the seconds hand while setting the time more precisely.

The story of the NH35 is not drama. It is confidence. It is the kind of movement that makes sense when the design is meant to be worn often: clean dials, everyday sport cases, classic dress-sport builds and watches where the customer wants mechanical character without turning the whole purchase into a technical puzzle.

When we build around NH35, the goal is alignment. The date window has to make sense with the dial. The hands need to sit cleanly. The crown action should feel natural. The watch should not feel like a collection of parts; it should feel like one complete piece.

Choose NH35 if you want the classic automatic ownership experience: wind it, wear it, set it, and let the watch become part of your daily rhythm.

NH34 GMT: the movement for a second time zone

The NH34 changes the watch from a simple timekeeper into a travel-aware tool.

TMI lists the NH34 with a centre GMT hand, three hands, date, 21,600 vibrations per hour, a stop-second device and 24 jewels. The difference you actually feel is simple: the watch can display another time zone, which gives the build a purpose beyond the main hour and minute hands.

For some customers, that second time zone is practical: travel, remote work, family abroad, business across coasts. For collectors, it creates a stronger design language. A GMT hand adds color, direction and intent. A bezel or chapter ring can become part of the story. The watch starts to feel built around movement, geography and momentum.

In a ModTime GMT build, the movement is only one layer. The dial has to stay readable. The GMT hand needs contrast. The case, bezel, hand set and color palette should all support the function instead of making the watch feel busy.

Choose NH34 if you want a custom GMT watch that tells a more active story: one watch, two time zones, and a build that feels made for movement.

NH38 open-heart: visible mechanical character

The NH38 is for the buyer who wants to see the machine.

TMI lists NH38 inside its NH mechanical family, and its own NH series materials describe open-heart designs as part of the NH3 range. This is where the movement becomes more than something hidden beneath the dial. It becomes part of the visual experience.

An open-heart build is not just about exposing a detail. It changes the mood of the watch. The dial feels more alive. The eye has a place to pause. The customer gets a small mechanical moment every time they look down at the wrist.

That kind of design has to be handled with restraint. If too many details compete with the opening, the watch loses elegance. If the hands, markers and dial texture are not balanced, the exposed movement becomes noise instead of focus.

When ModTime builds around NH38, the movement is treated as a visual anchor. The surrounding components need to give it room: clean proportions, controlled contrast and a dial layout that makes the open-heart detail feel intentional.

Choose NH38 if you want the movement to be part of the face of the watch, not only the engine behind it.

VK63 chronograph: sport timing with a precise, low-maintenance feel

The VK63 is the movement for chronograph energy.

TMI identifies VK63A as a premium chronograph movement. It is a quartz chronograph architecture, not a fully mechanical chronograph, and that distinction matters. It gives the watch a technical, timing-focused layout with subdials and pushers, while keeping ownership practical and low-maintenance.

This is why VK63 works so well in sport chronograph builds. The watch feels more active. The dial has more information. The pushers change the way the customer interacts with the piece. It becomes a watch you do not only read, but operate.

In ModTime language, VK63 gives a meca-quartz feel: the convenience and discipline of quartz with a chronograph experience that feels more tactile than a basic time-only quartz watch. We use that phrase as an ownership description, not as a claim that the movement is a fully mechanical calibre.

The challenge with a chronograph build is clarity. Subdials, markers, hands, date position and case proportions all have to work together. A chronograph can look impressive very quickly; making it look refined takes restraint.

Choose VK63 if you want a custom chronograph with sport timing presence, pusher interaction and a more technical wrist personality.

How we match the movement to the build

A movement is never selected in isolation.

First, we look at the intent of the watch. Is it meant to be a clean automatic, a travel GMT, a visible-mechanics piece or a chronograph? That decision shapes everything after it.

Then we check the component logic: case compatibility, dial layout, hand height, date position, stem and crown fit, subdial alignment and the way the movement changes the visual balance of the watch.

Then the watch moves into assembly and functional review. The movement has to sit correctly inside the case. The hands need proper clearance. The date or GMT function needs to operate cleanly. Chronograph pushers need to behave correctly. The final watch has to feel ready, not merely assembled.

That is why the movement page connects directly to the rest of our build system:

Which movement should you choose?

Choose NH35 if you want the most classic automatic experience: daily wear, mechanical rhythm and a clean date function.

Choose NH34 if you want a GMT complication: travel utility, a second time zone and a more functional collector story.

Choose NH38 if you want open-heart mechanical character: a watch where the movement becomes visible and emotional.

Choose VK63 if you want chronograph energy: pushers, subdials, sport timing and practical quartz ownership.

There is no single best movement for every customer. The best movement is the one that fits the watch you actually want to wear.

A clear note on independence

ModTime is an independent custom watch brand. We select and build around established movement families, but our watches are not produced by, authorized by, endorsed by or affiliated with any external watch manufacturer.

That clarity is part of the standard. A premium custom watch should not need confusion to feel desirable. It should earn attention through proportion, component choice, assembly quality and a story that is honest about what is inside.

Movement FAQ

Is an automatic movement better than quartz?

Not always. Automatic movements feel more traditional and mechanical. Quartz chronograph movements are often more practical and lower-maintenance. The better choice depends on what kind of ownership experience you want.

What does 21,600 vibrations per hour mean?

It describes the beat rate of certain NH mechanical movements. For the customer, it translates into the movement's mechanical rhythm and the way the seconds hand travels around the dial.

Is VK63 a mechanical chronograph?

No. VK63 is a quartz chronograph movement. It gives the watch chronograph functionality and a more tactile sport-watch experience, but it should not be described as a fully mechanical chronograph.

Does ModTime make its own movements?

No. ModTime builds independent custom watches around selected movement families. Our work is in movement selection, component compatibility, hand assembly, testing, finishing judgment and customer transparency.

Which movement is best for my first ModTime watch?

For a first automatic watch, NH35 is usually the clearest starting point. For travel utility, choose NH34. For visible mechanics, choose NH38. For chronograph styling and pusher interaction, choose VK63.